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When replacing the seals make sure to tap them in completely and evenly so they seat properly. I like to match up a socket that is the same size as the outer ring of the seal so I can press/tap the seals in evenly all at once.
When removing the seals they can be tapped out with anything from a socket to the rack itself. If you use the rack itself (not recommended but sometimes it's the only thing you have around that is the correct size) please do not hit the rack. Place a block of wood on top of the rack and hit the wood. This keeps the rack ends from getting chipped.
Wash everything while working on the rack and before you put the rack back together. Dirt and gunk is what caused your rack to leak in the first place. Dirt getting wedged in between the wiper seals and letting fluid pass is the main cause of leaky racks. The cleaner you keep the inside while working on it, the longer your rack will last. I also recommend replacing or cleaning your fluid reservoir when reinstalling. This catches quite a bit of that dirt and gunk we don't want and puts it right back inside of your freshly sealed rack.
Before installing the rack, go down to your local auto parts store and match up those little copper washers that go onto the lines connecting the rack. The little bit that it costs for new ones now is far less than the time it would take to reach around to the back of the rack and replace them if they leak later on. THEY WILL LEAK LATER ON.
If your boots are torn please get new ones. They are cheep and you can get them right off ebay for around $9. These help keep the dirt off of your rack. (they are not for holding fluid as you might think from the looks of your leaky rack)
If, when full of fluid, your rack felt week when turning one way, or both ways, you may have a broken pressure release valve spring inside the gear. You can check this while you have the rack apart. On the gear/spline piece that came out of the gear casting you will see a bolt holding a plate that covers two round pieces. This is located on the side of the gear piece between the band seals. Take this bolt out and the plate will come off with it. Remove the two round cap pieces and under them will be two springs. Check the springs to see if they are broken. If they are you should take them down to your local auto parts/hardware store and match them up as best as possible. This is your variable steering assist mechanism. As your rmp increases, so does the pressure of your power steering fluid. When the pressure gets to high this relieves the fluid back to the tank. If the spring is broken it is relieving to early and not giving your enough assistance during low rpm's. If this is your problem and you need more information on this please feel free to email me.
Also I would like to add that this is the way "I reseal a rack." The procedures discussed in this how to are more than likely not recommended by ZF or Porsche. This is the procedure that works for me but if you at any time feel uncomfortable with doing this yourself please consult your Porsche mechanic. It is good to explore and understand the intricate inner workings of your car's components and this can be done without any mishaps or damage if you practice patients, cleanliness and ask lots of questions.