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Tutorial

 

This tutorial is specifically for the Geometry Correction Ball Joint Kit. The other ball joint kits we offer install in basically the same manor. Some parts may be different but the same principles should apply. If at any time during the installation you have a question please do not hesitate to give us a call.

 

   Step 1 : Remove the rubber dust boot from the top of the ball joint pin.

 
Step 2 : Chip away the epoxy moisture barrier from the bottom of the ball joint pocket.

 
 Step 3 : The clean lower portion of the ball joint should look like this.

 
Step 4 : Remove the circlip holding the lower plate in place. Use a small screw driver or mechanics pick to get behind one edge of the circlip and pry it away from the edge of the pocket. In some cases it is easier to use a dremel tool to make a notch in the aluminum so the pick can be maneuvered behind the circlip for removal.

 
Step 5 : With the circlip removed the ball joint assembly should come out. The basic components are shown in the picture to your left. Clean the ball joint pocket so it is free of any grease at this time.

 
Step 6 : At this time inspect the upper portion of the ball joint pocket for any wear. Look for the top of the pocket being out of round or any rolling of the inside edge. If this is present it may be necessary to replace the entire arm. A damaged arm should not be rebuilt and may lead to premature failure of the rebuild kit.

 
 Step 7 : Place the upper bushing into the pocket as shown on your left. Use the conditioning grease included in your kit to lube the bushing and pocket prior to installation.

 
Step 8 : Press the upper bushing into the pocket by hand. Make sure it is even inside the pocket and seated at the top. A pushing tool may be made from a wooden dowel but it is not necessary.

 
 Step 9 : Use the conditioning grease to lube the ball portion of the ball pin. Insert the ball pin into so the ball is resting on the lower lip of the upper bushing. Don't worry if it doesn't go into the upper bushing all the way. It will seat when the joint is compressed together in step 14.

 
 Step 10 : Place the arm on its side and insert the lower bushing cup into the pocket below the ball pin.

 
 Step 11 : Place the spring in behind the lower bushing cup. A touch of grease will help this assymbaly stay in place while you are working on it.

 
 Step 12 : Place the sealing ring into the pocket. It should sit on the inside lip of the ball joint pocket.

 
 Step 13 : Place the lower plate in place behind the spring. Make sure the spring is situated so that the smallest diameter is facing this plate.

 Step 14 : Use a large c-clamp or vice to compress the ball joint into the pocket. Use stand-offs on both sides of the joint. A few sockets seem to work best but there are many other methods that also work. Make sure the spiral retaining ring is placed around your lower stand-off before the joint is compressed.

 
 Step 15 : This is what the installed spiral retaining ring should look like. Make sure it is seated completely.

 
 Step 16 : Install the zerk fitting and cap in the lower plate.

 
 Step 17 : Squeeze a small amount of epoxy onto the lower plate. The epoxy is used as a moisture barrier. After the epoxy is mixed place the small round disk over it and let it cure for 15 min.

 
 Step 18 : Push the boot over the top of the ball joint pin. After it passes the pinch bolt groove turn it inside out. Press it down until it reaches the boot retaining bump.

 
 Step 19 : Fill the top of the ball joint pocket with grease.

 
 Step 20 : While pressing downward turn the ball joint boot right side out and it should roll over the boot retaining bump.

 
 Step 21 : The boot should now look like the picture to your left.

 
 Step 22 : Rotate the ball joint pin back and forth to let the boot set in place. The new joint should be quite stiff but still able to piviot when forced by hand.



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